OUT AND ABOUT 1

Autumn is just about here and many of you might be assembling some plans. Castles are good places to go, but with Himeji being extremely crowded and mulling a price hike soon, it might be time to divert your dream castle trip to another castle.
Fortunately, Japan has quite a few others to choose from. However, most are incomplete or rebuilds. There are only 12 castles that remain with their original donjons, one of these of course being Himeji. The other 11 are certainly worth a visit though, and we hope to show you three of the best for your autumnal travels in Japan. Each has been selected for a different type of visitor, as the castles and locations can lead to very different experiences.

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Maruoka Castle

The area surrounding Maruoka Castle is such a nice place to be, and it is great for a quiet escape. There are nice gardens with a little history and a folklore museum to bolster the castle’s offerings. This is in stark contrast to the local tale about the castle being built around a woman who sacrificed herself to aid in the successful construction of the castle in exchange for her son being made a samurai. Fortunately for visitors, this tale is almost certainly false but makes an interesting hook for the guides. This hook is necessary as Fukui is one of the least visited prefectures in Japan. It really shouldn’t be though with offerings like Maruoka Castle. This castle is known as the “mist castle” for how it appears out of the haze on certain days. It is also one of Japan’s oldest keeps, which is well preserved and unfurnished, giving it a simple natural look.
Inside, there is a wonderful 3D model showing how the castle would have been in its heyday. It’s a great contrast to what you will see from the top. Once you are done with the tour, there is a little visitor’s center at the bottom with a koi pond and restaurant with local delicacies to try. The whole place has a friendly and calming vibe to it.
It’s a fantastic time to go to Fukui as shinkansen service has recently been extended there, making journeys from Tokyo much easier. The area is also easy to visit from Kansai using West Japan Railway’s Thunderbird express train. Once you get to Fukui Station there are buses that can take you to the castle, but they take about 50 minutes, so make sure to factor that into your plans. For those looking to make a day of it, the famous Tojinbo cliffs are not too far away, so consider adding that to your itinerary as well.

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Bitchu Matsuyama Castle

This castle in Takahashi, Okayama Prefecture, seems on the surface to be very ordinary but ends up having quite a lot going for it. Ideal for hikers, It is Japan’s highest castle above sea level and, as you’d imagine, has quite a climb to reach it. No fear, though, as it isn’t too tough getting up there and lots of break areas are scattered across the climb. Upon reaching the top you will find a rather small castle, as well as a charming cat who is actually the lord of this domain, Lord Sanjuro.
The castle has gone through an extensive renovation, detailed by the several notice boards in the area. The tenshu (main keep) is simple, with the inside feeling much like a village scout hut. It’s a small but homey space that contrasts heavily with the ornate majesty of Himeji. The surrounding scenery is absolutely stunning with great flowers near the lookout points. Most castles are built somewhere nice where the modern world is not far from sight. Climbing up to Bitchu Matsuyama, however, is more like stepping into a different time.For those wanting to visit, this castle can easily be accessed from Okayama Station, where one can find a direct train to Bitchu-Takahashi Station and take a bus up to the base of the walking trail. The surrounding area also offers sights of interest, including one of Japan’s oldest churches.
This is a great castle for the vertically minded traveler in Japan. Due to its remoteness, it sees a lot fewer visitors than Himeji but has a history equally impressive. The whole journey makes for a wonderful day out and access is superb. I found that I was able to get there and enjoy everything in half a day without any rushing. I did make some mistakes with the bus timetable and needed to get a taxi back to make my train, so I would advise checking the bus times before you go to avoid a similar fate.

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Matsumoto Castle

Tokyo is somewhat lacking in complete authentic castles. Yes, there are odd remains and reconstructions like Odawara nearby, and they are great in their own way, but for the real thing you’re going to need to visit Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture.
Up in the mountains of this sprawling prefecture is a huge fortress whose black facade has led to it being nicknamed “Crow Castle.” One unique thing about Matsumoto Castle is that it is the only authentic flatland castle left. This makes it a great place to visit for those with mobility issues, as you can easily walk around the grounds (though the interior will still be a challenge for some).
The castle is surrounded by a huge moat, which makes for some stunning photos, especially when you can get the castle reflected in the water. There are often people dressed as samurai ready to pose with tourists in front. This fortress has more of an arty side to it, emphasized by features like a moon-viewing room (tsukimi yagura). It’s nice to see a side of Japanese castle life that’s a little less war and a bit more peace.
Another unique thing about Matsumoto Castle is the museum on the second floor, which showcases armor and weapons from its history. The castle also offers firing demonstrations of the guns on special days, so look out for that as well.
Nagano is already a popular destination for those who ski, so why not tack on a trip to this castle to enhance your trip? A word to the wise: For those visiting in winter, you may want to wear extra socks as the floor is very cold.
For those who aren’t so keen on skiing, this castle makes a great day trip from Tokyo as there are direct trains to Matsumoto from Shinjuku every day. The castle is a short walk from the station (around 15 minutes), but buses and taxis are available as well. For those who drive, the nearby parking lot simplifies access even more.