TOKYO, CHUGOKU & SHIKOKU TRAVEL

Shinjuku Gyoen additionally reflects an important aspect of Tokyo — its multiculturalism. A mix of French, English and Japanese influences all work together in harmony, making this corner of Tokyo much more than the sum of its diverse parts, much like the eclectic capital itself.

Another highlight of the garden is how it changes throughout the year. Cherry blossoms in spring, red and gold maples in autumn, and the verdure of summer all keep families, individuals, and visitors from all around coming back for a respite from the hustle and bustle of the perpetually busy Shinjuku and Shibuya wards.

More adventure-minded tourists can also enjoy “sandboarding” down the steep dunes or, for a truly unforgettable experience, soar high above the sea of sand on a tandem paragliding flight. Be sure to stick around till the early evening, when the setting sun turns the dunes gold and orange, creating a dreamlike world that is sure to become a memory of a lifetime.

For more of Tottori’s scenic showcase, there is Mount Daisen, the tallest mountain in the Chugoku region. Often voted one of the three most picturesque peaks in Japan, Tottori’s Daisen erupts with fiery red and glowing yellow foliage in the fall, which can be experienced from above using the Masumizu Highland’s Expanse Lift. An alternative way of getting up Mount Daisen is by hiking one of its many trails that cater to all levels of experience.

A literal and figurative highpoint of Mount Daisen is the Kagikake Pass. Located 900 meters above sea level, it offers unparalleled views of the mountain’s rugged southern side contrasting beautifully with colorful foliage in autumn. Travelers can also enjoy mist wrapping itself around the Daisen peaks like a veil on clear mornings, while in the evening, they can marvel at the entire mountainside igniting in the otherworldly glow of the sunset.

The islands are also a mecca for fans of outdoor activities. Kayaking along the craggy coastlines, snorkeling and diving in the Sea of Japan, and cycling or hiking across different islands are great ways to get to know this corner of Shimane. Nature lovers also shouldn’t miss the Dangyo Falls, selected as one of Japan’s top 100 waterfalls, found deep within the forest of Dogo. But it’s not the only mystical location around, as the Oki Islands are steeped in Shinto tradition. Home to over 100 shrines, the secrets of the islands can be discovered through the distinctive festivals and events that have been passed down through the ages.

For a change of pace after the Oki Islands, there is the Adachi Museum of Art in Yasugi on the mainland. The museum gardens have been ranked the best in Japan for over two decades by Sukiya Living Magazine: The Journal of Japanese Gardening, and have been rated three-stars by the Michelin Green Guide Japan. The sections of the sprawling 165,000-square-meter green space, featuring everything from a dry landscape garden to moss, pond and white gravel and pine gardens and an artificial waterfall, look like living pictures, reflecting the philosophy of the museum’s founder Zenko Adachi.

Inside, visitors can explore a curated collection of Japanese painting and ceramic works by modern Japanese masters and afterward enjoy sweets or matcha at the onsite Midori and Taikan cafes or the Juraku-an traditional tearoom.

The Bikan Historical Area can be explored from small wooden boats during the leisurely Kurashiki Kawabune-nagashi river tour that takes guests beneath stone bridges and past old merchant houses that have been part of the city for hundreds of years. At night throughout the year, lighting installments give the waterways an otherworldly glow that is not to be missed. Ultimately, though, Kurashiki’s historical district has been made for leisure walks and frequent stops to admire the traditional buildings that today serve as cafes and shops. At Morita Shuzo, the only sake brewery in the area, people can taste sake made using the same methods as during the Edo Period (1603 to 1868).

Edo culture also comes to life beyond Kurashiki’s Historical Area at Okayama Korakuen, one of Japan’s Three Great Gardens. Built in the 17th century for a powerful feudal lord, the garden is a strolling oasis designed for inner reflections rather than ostentatious display. Its spacious, open lawns, a rarity in the world of Japanese gardens, stretch out invitingly, while the garden’s artificial hill, historical buildings and other features are connected by quiet paths and gentle waterways. Sawa-no-ike, the large central pond, acts as a mirror enhancing the colors of the surrounding cherry blossoms in spring, maple leaves in autumn and clear blue skies all year round.

Weary visitors are invited to rest a while at Ryuten Rest House, where they can immerse themselves in traditional Japanese culture. In spring, summer and autumn (November), the garden organizes a Fantasy Garden evening display, where light and shadow transform the tranquil scenery into something like from a dream.

Before departing, people should visit the Omotesando Shopping Street leading to the shrine, where the scent of grilled conger eel mingles with the fragrance of *momiji-manju* (maple-leaf-shaped dumplings), that are filled with sweet adzuki bean paste and other flavors, which the island is famous for.

On the other side of Hiroshima Prefecture lies the port city of Onomichi, the best views of which are offered by the Mount Senkoji Ropeway. The three-minute journey from Nagaeguchi Station to the top of Mount Senkoji might be brief but it is full of unforgettable views of the tiled rooftops of Onomichi, the city’s Onomichi Channel and views all the way to the Shimanami Kaido cycling route linking the city with Shikoku and the islands in between.

Equally stunning views are available from the Peak observation deck at the summit. Unveiling Shikoku’s mountains in the distance on clear days, the sight of Onomichi’s lights sparkling in the darkness like low-hanging stars has been dubbed one of Japan’s Top 100 Night Views. Other can’t-miss spots in the area include the Path of Literature with its stone monuments dedicated to 25 literary figures connected with Onomichi, Senko Temple (founded in 806) and Tennei Temple with its iconic three-story pagoda.

The plateau enchants both from above and below. The Akiyoshidai Karst Observatory unveils before travelers a stunning panorama of undulating green and white while 100 meters under the surface, the Akiyoshido cave awaits amateur spelunkers. About 1 kilometer of Akiyoshido (one of the largest limestone caves in Japan) is open to visitors, ushering them into a hushed, ancient cathedral of underground marvels like the spellbinding Golden Pillar, carved by water over millennia. The cave maintains a steady temperature of 17 degrees Celsius throughout the year, creating its own little world that echoes with eternity.

However, there are still many manmade attractions in Yamaguchi Prefecture, including the Kintaikyo Bridge that crosses the Nishiki River in Iwakuni. The five-arch wooden structure, first constructed in 1673 and rebuilt several times, was a masterpiece of traditional Japanese engineering. The bridge was unfortunately destroyed in a 1950 typhoon, but was rebuilt three years later as close to the original design as possible, without losing its charm. Today, it continues to stand as a symbol of humanity’s will to overcome seemingly impossible challenges with style and elegance.

Bringing to mind the backs of fish swimming upstream, the Kintaikyo Bridge also represents harmony between the natural world and human skill. In autumn, crimson leaves frame the bridge in fiery colors, attracting visitors from all over who wish to walk Kintaikyo’s planks. Whether one seeks the poetry of landscapes or the power of human spirit, Yamaguchi Prefecture is the place.

Those preferring to admire the sea from land should stroll the Uzu no Michi (whirlpool road). This 450-meter-long walkway with glass windows in the floor extends beneath the Onaruto Bridge connecting Shikoku and Awaji, giving visitors a bird’s-eye view of the maelstrom below. For commemorative photos, people can visit the Senjojiki Observation Deck with the Naruto Strait in the background, or the Ochaen Observatory, a location associated with the former lords of Tokushima, which provides sweeping panoramas of the Onaruto Bridge.

On the other side of the prefecture, another marvel attracts travelers looking for a little adventure. Deep in the mysterious Iya Valley stretches the Iya Kazurabashi (Vine Bridge of Iya), a National Important Tangible Folk Cultural Property and one of Japan’s three most interesting bridges. Some 14 meters above the emerald waters of the Iya River, this 45-meter-long, 2-meter-wide suspension bridge is woven entirely from hardy local vines, weighing close to six tons. Every step on the swaying structure, built sometime between the ninth and 12th centuries, is a thrill combined with a test of confidence in the craftsmanship of ancient Japanese engineers.

In autumn, crimson leaves set the Iya Valley ablaze with color, and by nightfall, the illuminated bridge creates a magical sight, though crossing it after dark is forbidden. Nearby, travelers will find the Biwa Waterfall cascading 50 meters down Tokushima’s cliffs, as well as riverside paths inviting introspection in the heart of nature.

Angel Road, on the other hand, can be enjoyed all year round. It’s an ephemeral path between Shodoshima and a string of islets that only appears at low tide. It is said that lovers who cross the sandbar together while holding hands will be together forever, almost as if the sea itself blessed their union.

Kagawa has great respect for the sea. On the mainland, the Kotohira Shrine (also known as Konpira-san) acts as a patron of seafarers. It’s 785 steps to the main shrine but the truly devoted go for the full 1,368 steps leading to the shrine’s inner sanctum. The approach is lined with rest areas as well as places selling souvenirs, noodles and local traditional confectionery, making the climb very enjoyable. The reward at the end is an unforgettable view of the Sanuki Plain and the Seto Inland Sea.

At the base of the approach sits the Former Konpira Grand Theater, popularly known as Kanamaru-za, Japan’s oldest surviving kabuki playhouse. Built in 1835, it echoes with Edo Period culture that is being kept alive with the annual Shikoku Konpira Kabuki Performance, held every spring. To step inside the theater is to step back in time to a world of plastered walls, wooden pillars and floors and flickering lanterns.

The castle grounds, like the Ninomaru Historical Garden, offer a relaxing alternative to the imposing tower keep, especially in October and November when they glow with the colors of autumn. The castle is easily accessible via ropeway or chairlift.

A short tram ride away awaits the steamy embrace of Dogo Onsen. Known as Japan’s oldest hot spring resort with over 3,000 years of history, Dogo Onsen has soothed the tired bones and muscles of sovereigns, samurai, artists and countless others. The Dogo Onsen Honkan, or main building, is a multistory wooden structure that became the first bathhouse designated a National Important Cultural Property in 1994. Inside, labyrinthine hallways and staircases lead visitors to six bathing courses where mineral-rich waters flow freely directly from an ancient spring renowned for its rumored beautifying effects on the skin.

Around the Honkan, narrow streets are filled with shrines, museums and shops selling local sweets and souvenirs. Be it Dogo Onsen’s Honkan, Tsubaki-no-Yu and Asuka-no-Yu annexes or free footbaths and hand baths in the area, every soak in the hot springs of Ehime feels like being awash in history.

At the heart of the temple stands the main hall, a National Important Cultural Property, and nearby is Kochi Prefecture’s only five-story pagoda, standing 31.2 meters tall. This cypress tower, rebuilt in 1980, feels as timeless as the lush forest that surrounds it. In appreciation of its natural setting, the temple invites visitors to wander around through shaded paths and past centuries-old monuments where history and nature share the same space in perfect harmony.

Over 150 kilometers away, visitors can find Cape Ashizuri at the southernmost tip of Shikoku. Ashizuri and Chikurinji may seem very different travel destinations at first glance, but both foster a contemplation of the infinite. Cape Ashizuri juts defiantly into the Pacific, where steep cliffs meet the boundless sky above what looks like a never-ending expanse of water, curving ever so gently in the distance. Walking trails weave along the cliffs, offering breathtaking views at every turn. Below the surface, the waters swell with marine life, making the area a mecca for scuba-diving and snorkeling. Due to all of this and more, Cape Ashizuri has earned two stars in the Michelin Green Guide Japan.

Another unforgettable part of the cape is the chalk-white Cape Ashizuri Lighthouse, one of the largest in Japan, rising majestically against the sapphire sea and sky, a steadfast sentinel for sailors and other seafarers. It reminds all that while Ashizuri is beautiful, it is an untamed and wild kind of beauty — elemental, vast and awe-inspiring, as befitting a prefecture that’s constantly facing the world’s largest ocean.